Pacifying the Nation (And Other Nearby Countries, Too)
2008.08.13 • Japanese Culture, Personal
Part of my summer vacation trip was to go to Yasukuni, the infamous war shrine that has generated a lot of controversy. I should start off with a quick review of its background - Yasukuni is a Meiji-era built shrine that houses the war dead of Japan, including some war criminals from World War II. Many nations, particularly China and South Korea, do not approve of this because they feel that Japan has not yet adequately apologized for its wartime atrocities. Additionally, Yasukuni has been accused of promoting a right-wing, nationalistic view and a return to a more militaristic Japan.
While I can’t say I can completely remove my biases, I can honestly say I tried. I wanted to visit Yasukuni to see it for myself and to be able to form my own opinions, rather than rely on the news and reports from known biased protesters.
This is one of the 2 torii gate at Yasukuni. The first torii gate, which I didn’t get a picture of, is in a park that also includes a statue of who I think is the founder. It’s pretty much the same design, one which I don’t find aesthetically appealing for a torii gate. Living inaka means I’m surrounded by wooden torii, including some really rough, extremely traditional ones and there’s something delicate and understated about that version over this dark, rather solid looking one. But that’s the art critic in me.
Here is the controversial shrine, tilted slightly because I’m not a good photographer. Or a photographer at all. And I’m too lazy to correct it in Photoshop. I should also note that there were a lot of old people around, including some that were praying quite seriously, plus an armed guard and that made me want to take my tourist photograph quickly and move on to other things.
I have to admit, I was rather disappointed. Based on the seemingly large amount of controversy and wrath at this one location, I had been expecting something darker, more sinister, and perhaps with the Star Wars Imperial March playing in the background. But the building and grounds are not provoking; in fact, they’re downright boring.
Of course, my reassurance that Yasukuni was not as threatening as it was cracked up to be was dashed after entering the museum. I don’t have any pictures because I don’t think any camera were allowed but I’ll say this much - they really screwed up World War II. I know I’ve received a biased education in World War II matters, being from the US, but I think I have a more balanced one. Every major topic covered that painted the US in a good or bad light - I knew about. Every major topic covered that painted Japan in a good light - I knew about…but I also knew some of the negative events that happened in the middle. These were not even mentioned in passing but were written out completely.
This is not to say that the museum is entirely without merit. The artifacts themselves are worth looking at and the pre-World War II material, particularly during the Meiji Restoration, was quite interesting. Other things that were of interest were the Imperial Rescripts, which are fairly innocuous, and the declaration of war, which I had never read. The personal accounts were also worth reading, although with a grain of salt.
Which one slants history more, Hiroshima’s museum or Yasukuni’s museum?
In some sections, Hiroshima’s museum seems to paint the picture that they were bombed almost out of the blue. Of course, a war was going on, but why Hiroshima? 1 They tend to focus on the citizens more. On the other hand, Yasukuni focuses on Japan’s need for resources during World War II and the sacrifices of its loyal citizens.2 There is also a strong element of victimization as well - ignoring the victimization of the other East Asian and Southeast Asian peoples by Japan.
In the end, I think Yasukuni’s museum does more damage than Hiroshima’s. The take-home message of the former is that World War II was a misunderstanding of Japan’s true intent to better the rest of Asian and other nations have and should emulate them (they include Ghandi on their list of people who have followed their example) while the take-home message of the latter is stop nuclear arms and have world peace. Yasukuni’s message may make people feel better but Hiroshima’s message is something we can all strive for.
And on a completely different matter….
I’m adding this, just to spread the misery. Yasukuni’s grounds are very flat and they have a drainage problem. Actually, anyone would have a drainage problem during flash flooding. This was the news of the day for Japan, which I watched back at the hotel after drying off and setting my shoes up to dry.
- It’s been a while since I was last there but if memory serves right, they don’t really acknowledge that Hiroshima had a huge military stockpile. [↩]
- This includes the Okinawans, who may disagree that they eagerly died for the Emperor [↩]
Comments
@RyanA: Good question - I’m not sure what Japanese think about Yasukuni. I know that it has its fair share of supporters - the right-wing nationalists, but to what degree of influence they have, I can’t answer that.
From the photograph, I think plain looking Yasukuni is rather fitting for a memorial site. Painting the temple with striking colors or constructing it majestically might evoke more unnecessary comments from some displeased countries (*ahem).
Wow flood, I don’t see them in Singapore. I guess its time for the Japanese government to work on the drainage system. Could earthquakes be one of the reasons flooding is a problem? No use improving the drainage if earthquakes keep destroying it, just my guess here though. =_=
“…there were a lot of old people around, including some that were praying quite seriously, plus an armed guard…”
As much as the shrine looks ‘dull’ outwardly, I’m supposing that it’s reputation preceding it as well as the seriousness of the devotees that could potentially give the place a somber ‘dark’ atmosphere… But that’s usually just stuff in our heads anyways.
@Hynavian: Agreed. I don’t think earthquakes are the problem, it’s just hard to deal with that amount of water in such a short time. Some sewer workers got swept away that day so the water level rose pretty fast, even below ground.
@issa-sa: Exactly and I’m glad I got that cleared out of my head. The park area is actually quite nice - nothing stunning like Hiroshima’s Peace Park but it’s very light and airy. The museum’s pretty dark though, if you don’t follow their rhetoric.
Very good information about a terrible time for the world. Sounds like Yasukuni is pretty unpopular; I wonder how native Japanese feel about it.